Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Scuba 101 : Pre-Dive Safety Check

Hi guys, it's been a while since our last Scuba 101 posting, so now I give you One of the most important parts of every dive is the pre-dive safety check, which is also known as a buddy check. You should always carry out this check with your buddy before beginning the dive.
The pre-dive safety check has two functions: you ensure that all of your buddy's equipment is working as it should; and you familiarize yourself with your buddy's equipment so that you are aware of how to release their weights and releases, use their deflator, and use their alternate air source, all of which may be necessary in the event of any difficulties during the dive.
You should do the check once you've donned all of your equipment, with the exception of your mask and fins. It's a good idea to do the check while you're still on the boat or shore, but if you happen to forget you can still do it in the water before descending.
The safety check is broken down into five components which are abbreviated with the acronym BWRAF. There are many mnemonics that can help you remember the steps in the safety check. You should use whatever you'll remember best. Here are some of the most common mnemonics.
Begin With Review And Friend
Beans With Rice And Fish
Because We Really Are Friends
Blonde Women Really Are Funny
Burgers With Relish And Fries
Bunnies Will Run Away Fast
Bangkok Women Really Are Fellas
You want to check that your buddy's BCD is working properly. Begin by inflating their BCD, although not completely as you don't want to make your buddy uncomfortable. Also deflate the BCD to ensure that the deflator is working properly.
Check your buddy's weight system. How you do this will depend upon what weight system your buddy is using.
Weight Belt: Check that your buddy's weight belt is on properly and that the quick release is free of obstructions and easily accessible. Any excess length of belt should not be tied or tucked into the BCD in such a way that it's difficult to release.
Integrated Weights: Check that your buddy has their weight pockets in their BCD (with weights in them!), that they are properly secured, and that you know how to release them.
Check that all of your buddy's releases are properly secured. This includes their Velcro waist band and at least two shoulder clips. Many BCDs also have a chest and stomach clip. It's a good idea to touch each clip as you check it and even count each one out loud as you do so. Remember to check the tank strap and clip. You can do this by placing one hand on the bottom of the tank and the other on the first stage regulator and trying to move the tank up and down to see if the strap will move.
Check that your buddy's air is turned all the way on and half a turn back. Have your buddy take one or more breaths from their regulator while you watch their SPG. While you look at the SPG, ensure that the tank is full (approximately 200 bar or 3000 psi) and that the needle doesn't dip as they breathe. If the needle dips this is a sign that the air isn't turned all the way on or there is a problem with the regulator. You should also test your buddy's alternate air source by taking two breaths from it.
Final OK
Check that your buddy has all other necessary equipment such as mask and fins. Ask your buddy if they're ready to go and if all is ok you're ready to dive.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Kissing Turtle

Hey guys, I've just receive e-mail, that showed me a rare picture, that is a lovely couple of turtles is kissing. I think you guys should see this picture (by Norbert Wu)

Hawksbill ( Eretmochelys imbricate )
"Swimming along a wall in waters near Indonesia's Komodo National Park, I saw these two hawksbill turtles move toward each other, then take positions on the reef wall. They touched noses, inspected each other, and then left, swimming in opposite directions."
—Norbert Wu

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Scuba 101 : Equalizing

Hello, we meet again at SCUBA 101. I have talked with several physicians regarding barotraumas and other equalization difficulties one may encounter. Today lets look at how we can reduce the risks associated with improper equalization techniques and enjoy the dive.

At the start of diving class the Instructor always have the students complete the medical questionnaire and on an individual basis the Instructor discuss any concerns with each student. More times than not a student indicates problems with equalizing their ears. After a short discussion we find out that the student never really learned how to equalize their ears or suffered from an allergy of some sort or another. Anything else and I refer them to their doctor. So any instructors must never assume that a student has learned proper techniques to equalization prior to coming to the class.

I have seen in many friends the tendency to force the equalization. This is not a good practice and may result in injury. Rather Instructor have to ensure that all students understand that equalization starts before the dive. Divers are instructed never to dive with a cold. Congestion of the sinus cavities makes equalization difficult and those who choose to use one of the many decongestants available at your local drug store risk the possibility of the medication wearing off during the dive. We still have very little understanding of the effects of increased partial pressures on these medications. Decompression Illness is a possible risk of diving with a cold. Don't dive with a cold.

Ok so now we have many techniques available to us to effectively equalize our ears

We can swallow, we can wiggle our jaw or we as most of us do, perform the valsalva. The swallow technique is a gentle way to equalize performed by pressing our tongue against the roof of our mouth and simply swallowing. For some this just is not very efficient. We wiggle our jaw or yawn causing our estasion tubes to flex thus allowing more air to enter our ear drum equalizing our ears. This technique works very effectively at deeper depths were pressure changes are not as great. The valsalva technique although disputed by some as being violent to the inner ears is nonetheless the most widely used and effect technique. The correct method of application is to gently perform the technique more frequently. My Instructor explain that we better use this technique and that it is important they pre pressurize their ears before they begin their descent and immediately after their head comes beneath the water, then every few feet thereafter, never allowing discomfort to occur. He also explain the importance of a feet first descent and to avoid kicking if at all possible. Kicking only causes us to ascend and wreaks havoc on our ears; to prevent this I have them cross their legs, point their toes. We need to know that a descent is a fall to the bottom, but we can control it by leveling out and using our BCD. We should learn that slow descents are perfectly fine and that it is ok to take our time.

Enjoy your dive.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Scuba 101 : Bouyancy Skill

The whole concept of buoyancy control seems simple enough, you just add some air to your BCD, breathe right and you float though the water with the greatest of ease achieving what is called neutral buoyancy! Ah yes that effortless, fully in control completely relaxed state of diving.

Unfortunately buoyancy control for most divers is more like a constant tug of war with the power inflator hose. Too much weight sends you looking for the inflator hose with even the slightest change in depth. Too little weight and you struggle to stay down at depth, if you can reach depth that is. It is the intent of this article is to help improve your buoyancy through the suggestions of a few simple skills and techniques.

The first thing is to look at how we breathe. What does breathing have to do with buoyancy and equipment? Actually breathing is the key thing, we'll address the equipment issue but it is our breathing that fine-tunes our buoyancy. I suggest that you start by checking how you breathe. Ideally you should breathe by using your diaphragm, this way you will ensure a full exchange of oxygen within your lungs and you will be much more efficient and relaxed during the dive. Slow deep breathing and relaxation are key elements to good buoyancy control. In your basic open water class you may have been instructed that proper weighting was achieved by having no air in your BCD, holding your breath and the water should be approximately dissecting your mask at eye level. WAIT A MINUTE HERE! What did I see - holding your breath - I DON'T THINK SO! If you are not breathing and have the right amount of weight to off set the equipment and the environment to which you are diving in, then you are not properly weighted. Get your breathing settled down before you do anything else, slow deep diaphragm breathing.

Now let's look at the equipment you may be using and how you wear that equipment

First, look at some equipment characteristics. The scuba cylinder is often overlooked as an issue to consider for good buoyancy control. The fact is that depending on how big and what kind of material the cylinder is made of has a great effect on buoyancy. An aluminum cylinder when full will be negatively buoyant by as much as 8 pounds, but when empty that same cylinder at as little as 1000 psig will be more positive buoyant by as much as 1-2 pounds. A steel cylinder depending on cubic footage will be as much as 8-10 pounds negative when full. When empty that same steel cylinder will still be negative 4-6 pounds buoyant. That means that less weight can be carried when wearing a steel cylinder. It also means that when a cylinder is full that air does have weight and that you will be more negative at the start of the dive. We need to adjust our weights so that at the end of the dive when attempting to complete the safety stop we are correctly weighted and have achieved neutral buoyancy. Weighting is best checked with little to no air in the cylinder 700-500 psig.

The next thing to look at is the environmental protection suit you choose to wear based upon the environment you will be diving. Warm water requires a thinner suit whereas colder water requires a thicker suit. Salt water versus fresh water, you will require more weight in the salt water than in the fresh water by as much as 4-6 pounds of lead. Sometimes I have my students wear the environmental suit they will wear most often for the environment they will be diving. I have them wear a scuba cylinder with about 500-700 psig. They remove all the lead weight they are wearing and then we begin by placing the weight back onto them in small increments, usually in 2-3 pound packets or blocks. With no air in the BCD and a normal breathing rate achieved we adjust the weight until they can sink just by exhaling and remain below the surface breathing normally. At this point I have them practice the fin pivot to obtain neutral buoyancy. Further to this I have them practice changing their depth just by varying their breathing. From this the diver learns the key to buoyancy control, the BCD is used to make the course adjustments, and breathing is used to fine-tune buoyancy to perfection.

Ok so now we have the basic equipment used for adjusting our buoyancy

Our breathing is established, our BCD has the right amount of air in it, and the correct amount of weights needed to offset our diving suit in the environment to which we are diving, and we have a full cylinder, all things are good to go. So why is it that we still don't feel all that great stuff about neutral buoyancy. Well it may be the position we are floating at or we may still not be fully relaxed. First of all lets just relax. We can practice this by not moving, no kicking, no sculling - nothing just freeze and see where you end up. Too much movement when attempting to obtain neutral buoyancy can make the difference between good and great buoyancy control.

Secondly we may need to trim ourselves properly. This means to ensure that we have positioned our weights and scuba cylinder to the correct ballast point to where we feel most comfortable. Make sure that you have even weight distribution from head to toe and left to right. Make a note of the material your fins are made of. Some fins sink while others float, Some BCD's have the use of rear weight pockets to distribute weight across the body. You can also strap weights to your BCD's tank band and trim yourself quite effectively with no lessening towards your safety should you need to ditch your weight in an emergency. Some divers use ankle weights as a means to distribute weight. You can even place an ankle weight up around the tank valve to assist you in trimming. And lets not forget that where we position our scuba cylinder itself will have a great affect on our buoyancy and trimming. A scuba cylinder, worn high places us in a more head down position, a cylinder worn too low places us in a feet heavy position. Try moving your cylinder up, taking care not to bump your head when you look forward. The advantage of this is you will find you are actually more streamlined and your breathing and movements will become easier and better. As an added result of regulator mechanics you'll have improved air consumption because your regulator will be working at a greater pressure than your lungs, if only by a few inches.

Once you get all the tricks mastered you'll be able to breath your way up and down the water column, around the reefs or through a hole in a shipwreck (avoid overhead environments unless you are properly trained to dive in these areas). The type of BCD you choose be it back inflation or jacket style will also affect your in water position but with practice you'll soon master control of that as well. Practice your buoyancy skills on each and every dive even if only for a few minutes, it will most certainly make a difference in the enjoyment of your diving.

Keep Diving .. Keep Training!

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

SCUBA 101 : How to Getting Started Diving (Buying Equipment)

With many different brands of scuba diving equipment available, you want to know what's best for you. To many times we can see that a particular student comes from a particular dive shop by the equipment they wear. By the same accord sometimes we can even determine who may have been their instructor. This not a bad thing but was the retailer or instructor really looking after the student. Many students buy equipment based on what the instructor is wearing, rather than on what meets their needs and budget.

We need to look at equipment from a different point of view than how the retailer looks at it. Some retailers are really only after the profit margin they receive following a sale. The store clerk may be pressured by quotas or makes a commission on each sale or both. Good retailers are truly interested in the customer's needs, and budgetary concerns and the service they can provide that customer. Oh yes, they want to make money but they want you to feel comfortable with your purchase and service you received. Retailers often rely on the scuba instructor to sell equipment and it is the instructor who is your first source of information when selecting the type of equipment that's right for you. Lets take a look now at what good retailers do in providing you the customer with what you need for enjoyable scuba diving.


It is here a good retailer shows they care about you, the customer. I once had to actually tell a customer that the $100 mask was wrong for her and that the $40 mask was a much better purchase. Why? because it FIT! She was convinced that the $100 mask was of much better quality and therefore should be better for her to have. The customer is always right, not this time. I explained to her that if the mask did not fit she would not enjoy scuba diving and that the less expensive mask would provide her with much more comfort, thus more enjoyable diving. I also explained that a mask may fit her but if she was not comfortable with that mask, to try on another one that provided her with a good fit and comfort. To prove my point I took three masks to the pool, the $100 mask and two $40 masks. She bought the more comfortable $40 mask. All three masks offered similar quality.

It is fit and comfort (and to some degree price and quality) that should be the deciding factor in selection of scuba diving equipment. As a customer, always use fit and comfort as your deciding factor in selecting equipment. Quality and price are important but today it is very easy to tell poor quality from good quality in scuba diving equipment, and the prices are wide ranging for similar quality. You should buy your equipment from a knowledgeable store dealing in scuba sales, service and instruction. Sorry but the equipment you buy at some large sports chain store or a save your money distributor store, will not survive for very long in the underwater environment and you will be right back spending money again to replace it, in short these kind of stores often sell equipment that I wouldn't even trust in a pool. Regulators can be made to fit by the mouthpiece. A retailer will change out the mouthpiece to ensure comfort to the customer. Regulators need only be judged by their ease of breathing. The average price for an excellent quality regulator is $450-$600. We'll cover other equipment such as the buoyancy compensation devices (BCD) and wetsuits later in their own section.


Different manufactures offer different warranties on their equipment. Generally the manufacturer that is willing to back their equipment will offer a longer term and more favorable warranty. Some offer lifetime to original owner. I have seen customers who have owned a particular brand of BCD for 18 years bring it in and get warranty work done at no cost to them for repair. Others only offer a 2-5 year warranty on their product. Warranty and service are also a deciding factor in the purchase of equipment.


There is many brands of equipment out there, some are better than others both in quality and price. The more expensive item does not guarantee the better product. You must decide based on your budget, what you can buy, and the quality and of course the fit and comfort. When selecting decide how that piece of equipment fits you and is it comfortable for you. Ask about the warranty. Paying a few dollars more may be worth it for the warranty. Ask about after sales service. Then when you are comfortable with the information you have, choose your color after all you want to look your best!


Lets take a few moments here to talk about how we can ensure that "good fit and comfort" we want in our diving equipment and how we should buy it to save the most money overall.


The mask should be placed upon your face without using the head strap. Make sure no hair is between the mask skirt and your facial skin. If you have a moustache you may need to consider trimming it a little under the nose about 1/8 inch or shave it off. Now suck in with your nose and hold it. The mask should suck in towards your face; you should not hear any air seepage and the mask should stay in place as long as you hold in the suction. Now pull the head strap over your head, positioning it above the ear line on the very back of your head. (You can release the suction) You may need to take in or let out some strap to fit your head. The mask should not be pulled to tight, as this will cause the skirt to flex out and cause the mask to leak and be uncomfortable. Does the mask sit comfortably on your face; is your vision good, looking straightforward and peripheral. Do you like a clear skirt or an opaque skirt? Is it your color? If you wear eyeglasses you may decide to purchase corrective lens for your mask. This is a better and safer option than wearing your contact lens. For this option you can purchase a mask with your actual prescription, even bifocals. The retailer also may stock corrective lenses for some masks, these can be installed in about 5 minutes. Usually a mask that you can use corrective lens in is a two-lens design.


The snorkel is really nothing more than a tube about 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter. It should be comfortable in your mouth and not more than 12-15 inches in overall length. For scuba diving you may elect to choose a snorkel that hangs down away from your mouth so as not to interfere when breathing from the regulator. The snorkel is worn on the left side of your mask.


The booties or wet socks come in a variety of styles. Basically they should be as comfortable to wear somewhat comparable to a good pair of running shoes or slippers. You want them snug on your feet but not to tight. Generally they size similar to a shoe size. Try them on and walk around in them, see how they feel. Booties offer warmth and better foot protection and are much safer than going barefoot.


Fins should be tried on with a pair of booties you find comfortable to wear. Some fins don't require booties as they just slide on your feet direct like a slipper. For scuba diving it is generally better to buy fins that use a foot strap. Your feet are warmer because of the booties and the fin will respond better to the movements of your leg during fin kick cycles. The fins should allow your foot to easily enter the foot pocket. It is not required that your toes touch the end of the foot pocket. The fins should be snug against the topside of your foot showing no gaps or loose material. Fins come in different sizes (small, med, large, x-large). Test the fit of the fin, first without using the fin strap, for security of fit. Now place the fin strap to where you find it most comfortable, usually just above the heel bone. Tighten the fin strap only until snug, do not over tighten, as this will cause cramps in your foot. Test the stiffness of the fin blade by pulling the fin tip back towards you, decide if you will quickly out grow the fin stiffness because of your leg strength or if the fin blade is suitable to your requirements. Does the color match your mask and snorkel? Ensure you become familiar with how the fin strap buckle system works, how it releases and tightens and how the strap mounts to the fin.


The environment to which you will be learning in will give you some good insight as to the importance of wearing a wetsuit or drysuit. There are many different materials available in which manufactures use in the making of their environmental suits. Some are warmer than others. Lets start with a look at wetsuits first. Basically the wetsuit is made of a neoprene material. The suit should fit snug but not be restrictive. Some manufacturers will make a custom wetsuit and of course this will cost you a few dollars more. For most of us we can get by with a suit right off the rack. Women's suits are sized similar to a women's dress size. Men go by small, medium, large and up. The sizing charts use a height and weight comparison method. My suggestion is to try a suit on, walk around in it and stretch it by reaching and bending, twisting and sitting. If you are diving in waters that are considered warm than you will not need a very thick suit. The colder the water the thicker the suit required. In some cases you may need a two-piece suit and require a hood and gloves. I suggest that if you are in an area where the water is cold then practice your skills wearing the gloves and hood to become familiar to the effects of wearing them. It doesn't hurt to do this in a warmer location either. Gloves will change your dexterity and a hood may feel awkward at first. Also wear the full suit in the pool before going out into the open water. This way you'll have a chance to better calculate your weight needed and you'll see that moving in a thicker suit may be a little more cumbersome than a thin skin type suit. You should always match your suit to the environment and depth to which you are diving. It is easier to cool down than warm up while underwater. If you do overheat when on the surface then just jump in the water and wait for your buddy there, it may be more comfortable. In any case get a wetsuit that is snug and comfortable to wear given the environment you'll do most of your diving in. Hey in today's materials you can even match the color of that mask, snorkel and fin set. Wetsuits range in price from about $65 for a shorty to $400 for a full two-piece, average price $159.00.

Now the drysuit! First of all there are a lot of myths out there regarding the wearing of drysuits. Lets clear some of them up first. After some time wearing a drysuit you'll find it to be much more comfortable and convenient than a wetsuit. Donning the drysuit will become easier the more times you wear it. The need to add excessive weight is also false. You'll require only as much weight, as you would need for a comparable thick wetsuit. A drysuit does require additional training and maintenance. Care of the drysuit especially the zipper, wrist and neck seals are an important factor if you wish to maximize the use and life of your drysuit. With good maintenance there is no reason that a drysuit should not last as long or longer then a wetsuit, approximately 3-5 years or longer. But for the comfort that you'll get, it is worth it. Drysuits come in a variety of materials. Some drysuits called shells come in very durable materials usually of a highly resistance to wear nylon, rubber, polyester material called a trilaminate. Others are of a rubatex or neoprene material. The neoprene material, although generally warmer, does not have the abrasive resistance or durability that other suits have. Good buoyancy control can negate that issue. You should receive training before using a drysuit for the first time. The use of an under garment called a " wooly-bear" is also needed to provide that extra bit of warmth that a drysuit is known for. A drysuit keeps you dry but you still may be subject to the cold and that is where the under garments come in. You should have sufficient space in your drysuit that you can wear an undergarment and still have plenty of room to stretch and move. Don't get one to baggy though you'll use up too much air in an attempt to avoid the suit from pinching you at depth, also known as squeeze. Follow the manufactures instructions on care and maintenance of the suit, especially the zipper. Ensure that the correct fit of all the seals is correct and comfortable. This is very important in the neck seal. Choose the drysuit based on your type and frequency of diving. If you dive shipwrecks or caves you may want a more durable shell type drysuit. If you enjoy diving the open water zones than a neoprene drysuit may be all you need. Drysuits vary in their pricing from as low as $400 to over $2500 so be certain that you choose wisely and according to your budget.


The buoyancy control device or BCD as it is called has come a long way since divers used a "Mae West". Today the BCD is used to support the air cylinder, the weight system, the regulator and oh yes the diver. The purpose of the BCD is to provide the diver with a means in which to achieve total freedom of movement when underwater. In your basic open water class you learn how to operate the BCD. The basic designs of BCD today are the horse collar, the wrap around jacket, and the back inflation. The horse collar is really not in use much anymore. If you see a diver wearing one of these than you might ask him about those early "Sea Hunt"" episodes on TV. The jacket and back inflation style are the norm today and each has it's own characteristics. Like any other piece of equipment the fit and comfort when wearing a BCD is very important. BCD's can be adjusted to fit. Some BCD manufactures have designed their BCD's to allow for a more custom fit when buying right off the rack. Your retailer should take the time to fit you correctly. Choose your BCD again for the type of diving you want to do; spending a little more now will save a lot more later. The BCD and regulator should be one of your first big equipment purchases. You'll know how it will fit and feel plus you know the condition they are in. The BCD is a life support system. Most BCD's provide approximately 35-40 pounds of lift or floatation. Some can achieve as much as 150 pounds of lift used in more technical diving applications.

And like every thing else they can come in a wide variety of colors, you know to match that mask, snorkel, fins and wetsuit you bought. Today some incorporate the weight system integrated into the BCD harness. These have proven to be much more comfortable to wear than the old weight belt. BCD's will also compensate for depth compression when you descend thus maintaining comfort and security. Prices range from $300 and up.


The regulator is the device, which allows us to breath underwater. Generally we select a regulator by how easy it breathes. Some regulators do not perform as well as others and some of the higher priced models don't perform with any notable difference to their lower priced counterparts. Review your budget and select a regulator that will meet your needs. Test breath several different models; see if your local dive shop will let you test dive the models you may consider buying. Each regulator assembly should include an octopus or alternate air source. Some BCD's have the alternate air source as part of their configuration and you'll need to learn how to use the particular configuration you choose.

In addition to the octopus the regulator assembly must have a console consisting of a depth gauge or computer, and a means to monitor your air supply.

A compass is also highly suggested. If you don't elect to use a computer you may not be getting the most out of your diving. Computers when used in conjunction with dive planning tables really add to your diving safety, and they provide a means of keeping track of all that dive data that you'll want for your logbook following your dive. Some have downloadable capabilities that you can connect to your PC and log your dives that way. If you are thinking about learning to dive with enriched air than I suggest to purchase a computer that will be programmable for enriched air diving and save the initial cost upfront.


The scuba cylinder should be one of the last things you purchase. The cost of renting a cylinder is not much more than an air fill. But if you plan to dive frequently than by all means buy one. They come in many different sizes from a small pony bottle to the much larger 130 cubic foot. You can decide between high pressure and low pressure, steel or aluminum. If you buy one you might as well purchase two scuba cylinders, just for the convenience. Oh yeh! And they come in a variety of colors so you can be color coordinated from head to toe - ah fin!


There are many accessories to add to your diving equipment list. On the top of the list should be a diving flag with float. Some states require by law that you have a flag anytime you are diving or snorkeling, the flag is a much worthwhile investment in diver safety. The diving knife is a tool and again there are many designs to choose from. If it's not a knife you want than perhaps a pair of scissors will be your choice. Diving lights I feel should be carried on every dive. At night you require at minimum two lights, one as a primary and the other as a back up. Some applications such as cave or wreck diving require that you carry a minimum of three. You will want to choose a light that provides you with sufficient light duration and brilliance for the type of diving you choose to do. For underwater photography or video the brighter the light generally the better. Another accessory that I find worthwhile is a device called "Divers Alert". It is a diver distress, signaling device that connects between the low-pressure inflator hose of your BCD and the tank. It produces a very loud signal that can be heard from a great distance, even over the noise of a boat's engines. You may also elect to carry a "Signal Sausage." In the event you may become separated from your dive flag this device will mark you position and warn boats that you are in the area. Finally an underwater slate. A slate can be used for many things from communication to your buddy, recording your dive plan and navigational recording. All you need is a standard pencil and you can write away. One over looked piece of equipment is the logbook. This simple little book can provide a world of historical and useful information if you take just a few moments after your day of diving to fill it out. There are to numerous accessories to mention just use some common sense and tailor accessories to the diving you opt to do. Accessories make great Christmas gifts, hint-hint!


Buying your equipment can be an interesting challenge. Select your retail shop carefully just as you would for your instruction, looking for a comfortable atmosphere and service and selection. A courteous staff will be there ready to provide you with what you NEED for the type of diving YOU choose to do. With consideration to your budget purchase equipment with quality that you feel also provides you the best fit and comfort level. I always suggest to my students to buy equipment in packages, this way they will save much money over the long haul. they should match the equipment to the type of diving that they have interest in doing now or maybe down the road with a little more experience under the water.


Monday, September 1, 2008

Scuba Diving

Hello All, do you like scuba diving? If so, then you are blessed by God. Because we can enjoy magnificient view, that anybody else cannot.
Are you certified yet? From PADI, SSI, NAUI etc. If you do, then you are holding the ticket to enjoy diving much much more. For me, I'm now in the process of getting certified by PADI (organized by Planet Diving, Jakarta) And I'm looking forward to it.
I've done 2 dives, only 2 dives left in order for getting certified. Of course I'll do that remaining dives after Lebaran.
But from only 2 dives, I've enjoyed diving so much. (I done the first 2 dives at Sanghyang, Anyer, Banten, Indonesia) though I must working hard to perfecting my buoyancy skill. But my Instructor, Mr.Yonatan, said not to be worry, because perfect buoyancy skill can only obtained by many diving experiences.

So.... are you ready to get wet and have fun????